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Home > Gripper 3.0 Assembly Instructions

Gripper 3.0 Assembly Instructions

What it’s about

The Gripper 3.0 is a precision CNC-machined end effector design for all of Parallax’s small robots. A single servo actuates the grab-and-lift motion with only a small amount of linear movement. The tension between the Gripper plates is determined by a torsion spring which also holds the plates down until the Gripper has closed from the initial servo movement. The remaining servo motion raises the object off the surface. The robot programmer only needs to determine the servos opened/lowered, closed/raised position, and the rate at which the transition occurs. The programmer needn’t consider the specific width of the object, just whether it fits within the Gripper’s paddles.

The kinds of objects the Gripper can pick up include 3D-printed cylinders, small wooden square blocks, and most lighter things about 1-½” in diameter and up to an ounce in weight. Take these parameters into consideration when designing autonomous robot contest rules.   

Assembly requires about one hour and may be achieved by anybody with some hand tool proficiency and attention to detail.

Before you start

You will need:

  • A Gripper 3.0 kit (#28203)
  • An assembled and navigation-tested Parallax small robot:
    • Boe-Bot (#28832, (#28132, #81031)
    • ActivityBot (#32600, #32500)
    • cyber:bot with micro:bit (#32700)
    • Shield-Bot with Arduino (#32335, #81033)
  • The Parallax screwdriver (Philips #1/flathead combo)
  • Right-angle wire cutters
  • Needle-nose pliers

After you finish

Your robot will be equipped to pick up and carry objects!

Gripper Bill of Materials

  • Check your kit to make sure it includes the parts in the list below the diagram; most parts are pictured. If anything is missing, contact sales@parallax.com, (888) 512-1024.

CNC machined aluminum parts:

  • (1) Hinge (#720-00027)
  • (1) Base (#720-00028)
  • (2) Arms (#720-00029)
  • (2) Idler Gears (#720-00030)
  • (2) Fingers (#720-00031)
  • (2) Paddles (#720-00032)

Laser-cut parts:

  • (2) Gear Plate (#720-00033)

Hardware parts

  • (9) 4-40 ⅜” panhead screws (#700-00002)
  • (1) 4-40 nut (#700-00003)
  • (9) 4-40 nylon locknuts (#700-00024)
  • (6) 4-40 ¼” panhead screws (#700-00028)
  • (4) 4-40 3/16” flathead screws (#710-00005)
  • (1) 4-40 1-¼” panhead screw (#713-00052)
  • (2) #4 stainless steel washers (#712-00011)
  • (1) 1” nylon spacer 3/16” diameter (#713-00031)
  • (2) universal “L” brackets (#720-00011)
  • (1) universal straight bracket (#720-00012)
  • (1) Torsion spring, 90 degrees (#725-00022)
  • (1) Brass rod with ring terminal connector (#725-00027)

Miscellaneous Parts

  • (1) 3M Safety glasses (#700-10003)
  • (1) Super Lube white grease (#700-10019)
  • (1) Combination wrench (#700-00025)
  • (1) Servo horn connector, brass (#725-00007)
  • (1) Parallax Standard Servo (#900-00005)
  • Foam tape, 10″ strip (900-00105)

Put the safety glasses on immediately! The Gripper has small parts, including a torsion spring which may be inadvertently released during assembly.

Attach Hinge to Chassis

Put the safety glasses on immediately! The Gripper has small parts, including a torsion spring which may be inadvertently released during assembly.

  • Using (3) 4-40 ⅜” panhead screws, attach the Hinge to the front of the robot chassis by placing the screws through the holes and into the chassis. The Hinge part will mostly self-align in the correct position on the front of the robot chassis.

  • Secure the screws with (3) Nylon locknuts on the inside of the chassis. The small wrench can help hold the nuts in place to get them started, but they should be tightened securely with needle-nose pliers.

  • The mounted Base should look like this when viewed from the bottom of the robot. 

Attach Base and Spring to Hinge

Put the safety glasses on immediately! The Gripper has small parts, including a torsion spring which may be inadvertently released during assembly.

The Base is attached to the Hinge with these parts, in order:

1-1/4″ screw > washer > Nylon spacer > Torsion spring over Spacer > washer > locknut

Once assembled, The torsion spring should apply downward pressure to the Base. 

  • PUT ON YOUR SAFETY GLASSES IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE SO ALREADY! 
  • Gather the 4-40 1-1/4” panhead screw, (1) Nylon locknut, (2) #4 washers, the 1” long 3/16” diameter Nylon spacer, Base part, and the 90° torsion spring.
  • Align the Base holes between the Hinge holes.
  • Slide the 1″ Nylon spacer through the first set of Base and Hinge holes.
  • Pinch the torsion spring’s ends together and position it between the Base holes.
  • Slide the spacer through the torsion spring and the second set of Base and Hinge holes to hold the pieces in place.
  • Thread a #4 washer onto the 1-1/4″ panhead screw.
  • Thread the screw through the 1″ Nylon spacer.
  • Thread the second #4 washer onto the screw, and secure it in place with a Nylon locknut to secure the Base to the Hinge.
  • Tighten the screw and locknut, but make sure there’s no binding.

The assembled pieces should look like this:

  • PUT ON YOUR SAFETY GLASSES IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE SO ALREADY!
  • Using right-angle cutters, snip the torsion spring flush with the top of the Base. To avoid sending the cut spring parts flying through the air, hold the loose end while you cut.

  • Cut the other side of the torsion spring flush with the top of the Hinge as shown. Cut this wire as tight to the Hinge and Base as possible.

Attach Paddles to Fingers

Put the safety glasses on immediately! The Gripper has small parts, including a torsion spring which may be inadvertently released during assembly.

  • Using (2) 4-40 3/16” flathead screws each, attach a Paddle to each Finger. The flat-head screws should sit flush in their countersunk holes. Set these two assemblies aside.

Assemble the Arms

Put the safety glasses on immediately! The Gripper has small parts, including a torsion spring which may be inadvertently released during assembly.

An Arm connects each Finger to the Base, from the top side. Each Arm has three posts pointing downward: one on the thin end for a Finger, one on the geared end for the Base, and one in the center for the Idler Gear that slips between the Finger and Base gears. A Gear Plate on the bottom holds the pieces together.

  • Turn your robot on its side. Place the geared end of the Arm on the Base, sliding the post into one hole on the Base.
  • Put a Finger on the post at the other end of the Arm, so that the paddle faces inward.
  • Place an Idler Gear on the middle post of the Arm, between the Base and Finger gears.

  • Snip the end off of your Super Lube PTFE grease and place a very small amount of it on the seam between each post and gear, where the metal pieces move together. (Then save the grease, you will need it again in a later step.)

  • Using (3) 4-40 ¼” panhead screws, attach the black, laser-cut Gear Plate to the bottom of the Arm posts as shown.
  • Tighten the screws against the Gear Plate; this will not cause the gears to bind. The Gear Plate will help to minimize the potential for catching your fingers when picking up a robot with a moving Gripper mounted on the front.

  • Repeat the previous step for the other side. The full assembly looks like this, from the bottom. 

Attach the Brass Rod

Put the safety glasses on immediately! The Gripper has small parts, including a torsion spring which may be inadvertently released during assembly.

  • Turn your robot over so it is right-side up and take a look at your work! The torsion spring will hold the Gripper close to the surface. It should open and close smoothly.

  • Using a 4-40 ⅜” panhead screw and a 4-40 machine nut, attach the brass rod with a ring terminal connector to the Gripper’s front left side on the innermost threaded hole of the Arm.
  • Tighten the nut against the Arm. Be sure to locate the brass rod’s ring terminal so that it’s rotated in the low position as shown. 

Attach the Servo

Put the safety glasses on immediately! The Gripper has small parts, including a torsion spring which may be inadvertently released during assembly.

  • Unplug and temporarily remove the robot’s battery pack.
  • Using a 4-40 ⅜” panhead screw and a 4-40 Nylon lock nut, attach the Universal “L” bracket to the back left side of the robot chassis as shown here.
  • Replace the battery pack when finished.

  • Remove the battery plug from the robot’s power jack.
  • Remove the screw that secures the back left corner of the board to the standoff.
  • Attach a Universal “L” bracket as shown using the screw.

  • Using (3) 4-40 ⅜” panhead screws, (3) Nylon locknuts, and a straight bracket, attach the top and bottom servo flanges to both brackets.

Connect Brass Rod to Servo

Put the safety glasses on immediately! The Gripper has small parts, including a torsion spring which may be inadvertently released during assembly.

Note that this step has slightly modified instructions if you are using a Shield-Bot with Arduino.

  • Locate the small bag of servo horn connector parts. 

  • Remove the servo horn from the servo and SAVE THE BLACK SCREW.

  • Mount the connector to the top of the servo horn. The hole to use depends on which robot you have:
    • For the Boe-Bot, ActivityBot, or cyber:bot: mount the servo horn connector parts on the second hole from the inside.
    • For the Shield-Bot, mount the servo horn connector parts on the third hole from the inside, to provide clearance for the Arduino Uno.
  • Find the flat, metal internal star-shaped keeper that attaches to the brass post. Press it on carefully and put the rubber dome over the top. Use pliers to lightly press the entire assembly together.
  • Attach the small screw to the brass keeper.

  • Close the Gripper as shown.

  • Place the servo horn back on the servo, with the brass wire keeper and brass rod in place. When centering the servo horn on the servo spline, verify that the middle of the servo’s range of motion moves freely at least 90 degrees (in both directions).
  •  Secure the servo horn with the saved black servo screw.
  • Cut the excess brass rod with right-angle cutters, allowing an inch or two of extra wire in case adjustments need to be made.

  • Check the brass rod for clearance from other wires in the robot chassis. Move the wires around as necessary to ensure that the brass rod doesn’t touch.
  • If you are using a Shield-Bot, make sure the brass rod does not touch the bottom of the Arduino Uno. If you need more clearance, move the brass keeper to the outermost hole in the servo horn.

More Gear Grease and Foam Pads

With your robot powered down, turn the servo slowly by hand to see how the parts of the completed Gripper work together.

More Gear Grease

  • Place very small amounts of Super Lube PTFE grease wherever the metal pieces move against each other.
  • Grease the Idler Gear. It is most accessible with the Gripper in a closed position.

  • Position the Gripper fully open to access other parts.

Foam Pads for the Paddles

Foam pads on the inside of the paddles will help the Gripper hold onto smooth objects.

  • Cut short strips of foam tape and place it on the inside of the paddles where you think it will be effective.

You can always remove the foam residue with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Your local hardware store has a variety of foam types available in the window and door insulation department, if you wish to experiment with other options.

Tuning and Programming

Physically Position the Servo and Gripper

Prior to doing any programming to open and close the gripper, the servo horn should be centered within the servo’s range of motion – in the middle with 90 degrees of motion on either side – and the Gripper in the closed, lower position as shown below.

  • Loosen the screw on the brass connector to allow the brass rod to position itself correctly.
  • Move the servo through its range of motion and make sure it is centered when the Gripper is closed and in the lowered position.
  • If needed, remove the servo screw and rotate the servo horn to an optimal position, then re-attach.
  • Tighten the screw on the brass rod connector when you are done.

Coding for the Gripper

Parallax hosts many tutorials for controlling a standard servo. Regardless of the microcontroller you are using, the following is always true for the Parallax Standard Servo which rotates 180°when mounted on the Gripper:

  • A positive pulse of 1500 us between a 20-40 ms pause will put the servo in the center position;
  • 0° is a 1000 μs (1 ms) pulse and 180° is a pulse of 2000 us (2 ms), with the pause mentioned above;
  • Program the microcontroller to “step” through the full range of motion and avoid “Gripper slapping” by finding the best increments of pulse stepping to move the Gripper; and
  • A range of motion of less than 90 degrees of movement is plenty to control the Gripper.

Below is a sample project in Makecode to test your gripper out.

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